Mulligatawny Soup

Mulligatawny Soup was actually the anglicized version of the Tamil “Melligu -Thani”. (“Melligu” meaning pepper and “Thanir” meaning water). As the name suggests it was originally just pepper in a watery soup.

The original Mulligatawny Soup can be traced back to the early days of the East India Company in Madras to around the 18th century. It was originally a soup made with chicken or mutton/lamb stock. Mulligatawny Soup had no history in India before the British Raj. Supposedly, it was simply an invention to satisfy the Britishers, who demanded a soup course for dinner from a cuisine that had never produced one till then. The Tamil servants in those days concocted a stew like dish, that contained pepper and water on the lines of their local “Rasam” or “Melligu –Thanir. It was an interesting mix of East meets West, and was the nearest thing to soup in the cuisine of Colonial India.

In course of time a lot of other ingredients such meat, chicken, coconut, turmeric and other spices were added to give it a completely different flavour. A variety of “Mulligatawnies”, then came into existence which quickly became popular throughout the Common Wealth. Recipes for mulligatawny were quickly brought back to England by the British and its popularity spread through out the country. It has made a lasting impression on British cuisine right down to the present day, though it has undergone many changes. It is still an excellent “Comfort” dish on a cold rainy day and will surely lift the spirits when one is down in the dumps.

Mulligatawny Soup is now firmly entrenched not just in cookbooks but history books as well as a thick, spicy meat soup which is a wholesome meal in itself served with bread or rice. It has remained popular in the United Kingdom and is now available even in cans in some stores. The Mulligatawny Soup of today bears little resemblance to the original “MELLIGU -THANI”. And despite the name, pepper itself is not an important ingredient in the dish.

Though purported to be a classic Anglo-Indian dish since it came into existence during the Colonial Era, and was very popular then, Mulligatawny is not a typical Anglo-Indian dish. The real dish we Anglo-Indians call "Pepper water" is actually closer to the Tamil Rasam than Mulligatawny. Mulligatawny ultimately culminated into our very own Breast Bone pepperwater and various other variations such Shrimp Pepperwater, Dal Pepperwater, Horsegram pepperwater, etc.

CHICKEN MULLIGATAWNY
Serves 6 Preparation time 45 minutes

½ kg chicken chopped into medium size pieces

1-teaspoon chilly powder 2-teaspoons pepper powder

1-teaspoon cumin powder 1-teaspoon coriander powder

1-teaspoon crushed garlic 2 big onions sliced

1 cup coconut paste or coconut milk Salt to taste

2 cloves 2 small pieces cinnamon

2 cardamoms 1 tablespoon oil or butter

Cook the chicken and all the ingredients with 6 to 8 cups of water in a large vessel on high heat till it reaches boiling point. Lower the heat and simmer for at least one hour till the soup is nice and thick. Garnish with mint leaves. Serve with bread or rice.

(Mutton or Lamb could be substituted for chicken)

BREAD PUDDING – THE POOR MAN’S PUDDING

Bread Pudding is an old fashioned dessert that had its humble beginnings in the 13th century in England. It was first known as a "poor man's pudding" as it was created as a means of making use of stale left over bread for poor people to eat. It was just moistened in water, to which a little sugar, spices and other ingredients were added. Today after it has passed through so many centuries, we think of bread Pudding as a Rich Treat.

Bread pudding is a dessert popular in British cuisine. It is also a popular dessert item of Belgian, Spanish and French cuisine as well. The French refer to it by the English name "pudding" without the word "bread" and the Belgians call it “Bodding”. It is also referred to as "Migas" and "Budin de Pan" in Spanish.

For those unfamiliar with this dish, (which I’m sure there aren’t many), bread pudding is typically made the British way, by soaking slices of bread cut into cubes in a mixture of milk, egg, and sugar; adding raisins and spices and baking or steaming the mixture. Actually its taste is not that much different from French toast, except much moister. In Spain, bread pudding is made using stale (usually left-over) bread, suet, eggs, sugar, spices, dried fruit and / or golden syrup. The bread is soaked (often overnight) in some water, squeezed dry, and mixed with the other ingredients. The mixture is transferred into a dish and baked. It is then served with a sweet liquor sauce of some sort, such as whiskey sauce, rum sauce, or just caramel sauce. However in the U K and Southern USA where it is now quite popular, it is typically sprinkled with sugar and eaten cold in squares or slices along with custard sauce. In France oranges and other fruits are added to give it a different flavour.

Bread Pudding was introduced in India by the British during the time of the East India company. It was an easy dessert for the colonial servants to make and became popular in Anglo-Indian cusine which is loved and enjoyed even today. Each family has its own recipe for making bread pudding whether baked or steamed. Adding Condensed milk, cream, etc adds to the taste and calories!!!

Bread pudding can be made into a savoury dish as well by substituting sugar and raisins with chopped tomatoes, green chillies or capsisums / chillie peppers etc. You could experiment and make your own tasty pudding. Of course, one’s choice of bread, the addition of optional ingredients, and the details of preparation can make bread pudding into art form. Bread pudding can be made into a rich heavy dessert or just a simple light dish that even an invalid can digest. The possibilities are endless. Try out the recipes given below.

OLD FASHION BREAD PUDDING

Serves 6 Preparation time 1 hour

3 cups Milk 8 slices of bread cut into cubes
200 grams butter 200 grams sugar
2 beaten eggs 1/4 tsp salt
200 grams raisins and chopped nuts 1 tsp vanilla essence

Heat milk to scalding, and pour over the bread cubes. Set aside to cool for some time then add all the other ingredients. Add more milk if too dry. Pour into a buttered baking pan or dish. Bake at 350 degrees for 40-45 minutes or until knife comes out clean. Serve warm.

The same pudding can be steamed in a pressure cooker as well

MANGO FRUIT PUDDING

An easy to whip up mouth watering dessert that captures the glorious flavours of mangoes.

750 ml mango puree
250 ml condensed or evaporated milk
1 tablespoon unflavoured gelatin
2 tablespoons sugar
250 ml hot water
8 ice cubes

Add the gelatin and sugar to the hot water and stir until completely dissolved and smooth.

In a large bowl mix the mango puree, condensed / evaporated milk and ice cubes together. Add the gelatin mixture and stir until the ice cubes have melted. Pour the mixture into a jelly mould or bowl and chill until set (about 3 hours).

To serve, dip the jelly mould briefly in hot water, then turn onto a plate. Top with slices of fresh mango or strawberry and the left over condensed milk.

SPICY ANGLO-INDIAN PORK ROAST

Serves 6 Preparation time; 2 hours

2kg pork (1 whole piece) from the shoulder portion 2 teaspoons pepper powder
4 dried red chillies broken into bits 3 pieces of cinnamon about ½ inch each
1 teaspoon chilly powder ½ teaspoon tumeric powder
2 or 3 onions sliced 1 tablespoon vinegar
1 tablespoon oil
Salt to taste
Wash the pork and rub it well all over with the salt, pepper, chilly powder and tumeric powder. Spread the sliced onions evenly in a fairly large greased baking dish. Lay the chunk of pork on the layer of onions. Sprinkle the broken red chillies and cinnamon over it. Drizzle the oil all over the meat. Shake the dish so that it spreads evenly. Cook in a moderate oven (355 0 ) for about one and a half hours till the meat is soft and brown. (Turn the meat over every half hour so that it browns all over evenly).

Serve with mash potato and Bread or Rice.

The Pork Roast could be prepared using a Pressure cooker instead of baking in an oven.

COLONIAL STYLE PEPPER CHICKEN

1 kg chicken cut into medium size pieces

3 large onions sliced finely

2 teaspoons pepper powder

1 teaspoon tumeric powder

2 tablespoons oil

salt to taste


Heat oil in a pan and fry the onions lightly. Add the chicken and mix in the pepper powder, tumeric powder and salt. Add ½ cup of water and cook on low heat till the chicken is tender and semi dry. Simmer for 10 more minutes stirring occasionally till the chicken gets a good shiny colour.

Alternately, the chicken can be par boiled with a little water and then added to the sautéed onions and pepper.

ANGLO-INDIAN GINGER WINE

100 grams fresh ginger root
2 kgs sugar
6 limes / lemons (extract the juice)
3 pieces cinnamon
6 litres water

Peel and wash the ginger root and cut into thin strips. Put the ginger pieces, sugar and cinnamon together and bring to boil on high heat. Lower the heat, then simmer for atleast 2 hours on low heat till the water reduces and the mixture becomes slightly thick and coloured. Remove from heat then add the lime /lemon juice and mix well. When cold, strain through a thin cloth. Bottle and use as a digestive after all the heavy Christmas fare. This wine lasts for 3 months in a refrigerator.

GRAPE WINE

1 kg black sweet grapes

1 kg sugar

2 litres water

1/4 teaspoon baker's yeast

Wash the grapes we.. crush them well with the sugar. Add water and yeast and leave aside in a jar or a suitable vessel for 21 days. Open and stir the mixture every alternate day. After 21 days strain the mixture and leave aside for the sediments to settle. Strain once again then transfer to bottles.

To add more colour to the wine. Burn some sugar with a little rum / brandy/ wine in a saucepan. When the sugar gets caramelised add to the wine and mix well. It will then have a lovely rich colour.

Note: For making larger quantities of wine, increase the ingredients accordingly

COCONUT SWEETS (BARFI)

2 cups coconut scrapings

2 cups white sugar

1/2 cup milk

1 tablespoon butter or ghee

1/2 teaspoon vanilla essence

1/2 teaspoon pink or green food colouring

Take a thick bottomed vessel and heat the sugar and 1/4 cup water on high heat. When the sugar melts, add the coconut, vanilla essence, ghee / butter and the milk. Cook on medium heat stirring all the time till the mixture thickens and leaves the sides of the vessel. Drop a teaspoon of the mixture in a cup of water and if it forms a ball when rolled between the thumb and fingers, the right consistency is reached. Grease a flat plate and pour the mixture on it. Spread well and flatten with the back of a spoon dipped in water. Cut into squares when slightly cool.

ANGLO-INDIAN DOLDOL (THOLE THOLE)

A SPECIAL ANGLO-INDIAN CHRISTMAS SWEET MADE WITH RICE FLOUR AND COCONUT MILK

INGREDIENTS
1 kg Sugar
500 grams Almonds chopped
300 grams find Semolina / Rava (Roasted lightly with a little ghee)
500 grams ghee or clarified butter
5 cups thick coconut milk extracted from 3 coconuts or 5 packs of ready coconut milk
1 kg Puttu Rice or Red Rice Flour

METHOD

In a fairly big vessel, boil the sugar and coconut milk together till it forms a syrup. Mix the Rice flour and Semolina together and add to the syrup a little at a time, stirring constantly. Add the ghee and almonds. Stirring continuously, keep cooking on low heat till the mixture is thick and leaves the sides of the pan. Remove from heat and pour onto a greased plate. Cut into squares when cold. The Doldol will be black in colour.

CHRISTMAS PUDDING

Serves 6 Preparation time 1 hour

200 grams fresh bread crumbs
200 grams butter
2 teaspoons instant coffee (Nescafe or Bru)
2 teaspoons golden or caramel syrup
½ teaspoon baking powder
2 eggs beaten well
¼ cup rum
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon and cloves
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
100 grams raisins
100 grams chopped sultanas
100 grams mixed peel
½ teaspoon salt
100 grams sugar

Cream the butter and sugar together then add the eggs and mix well. Gradually add all the other ingredients and mix well. Grease a Pudding Mould or any suitable bowl with butter. Pour the pudding mixture into it then steam the pudding for about 1 hour on low heat till it is firm to touch.

Note: This pudding can be made in advance and refrigerated till required. Steam for 10 minute or microwave for 3 minutes before serving

CHOCOLATE BROWNIES

Serves 6 Preparation time 1 hour

200 grams refined flour or maida
2 eggs
200 grams sugar
200 grams butter
A pinch of salt
2 tablespoons cocoa powder
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
2 tablespoons broken cashew nuts of walnuts

Beat the butter, sugar, eggs, salt, cocoa powder and vanilla essence together till creamy. Add the flour and mix well. If mixture is too thick add a little milk. Pour the mixture into a buttered and floured cake tin and sprinkle the broken cashew nuts or walnuts on the top. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes in a moderate oven. The top should be brown and crisp.

ANGLO-INDIAN CHRISTMAS TREATS

ANGLO-INDIAN CHRISTMAS TREATS

KAL KALS (Fried sweetened balls of dough)
Serves 6 Preparation time 1 hour
Ingredients

I kg refined flour or maida
6 eggs beaten well
2 cups thick coconut milk
½ teaspoon salt
300 grams sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
Oil for deep frying

Mix the flour, salt, sugar and baking powder together. Add the coconut milk and eggs and knead to a soft dough. Keep aside for an hour. Form kalkals by taking small lumps of the dough and roll on the back of a fork or a wooden kalkal mould, to form a scroll. Alternately, roll out the dough and cut into fancy shapes with kalkal or cookie cutters. Heat oil in a deep pan and fry as many kalkals as possible at a time. Keep aside.

To ice the kalkals, melt 1 cup of sugar with ½ cup of water and when the sugar syrup crystallizes pour over the kalkals and mix well. Store in airtight boxes when cold.

ROSE COOKIES
Serves 6 Preparation time 1 hour
Ingredients

½ kg refined flour or maida
250 grams rice flour (optional)
1 cup coconut milk
200 grams sugar
6 eggs beaten well
½ teaspoon salt
1 litre oil for frying
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
1 teaspoon baking powder

Mix all the ingredients together to form a smooth slightly thick batter.
Heat oil in a deep pan till it reaches boiling point. Now place the rose cookie mould into the oil to get hot. When the mould is hot enough dip it half way only into the batter and put it back immediately into the boiling oil. Shake the mould to separate the cookie from it. Heat the mould again and repeat the process. Fry rose cookies till brown. Continue in this way till the batter is finished.

Note: The batter will stick to the rose cookie mould with a hissing sound only if it is sufficiently hot otherwise it will just slide off the mould

CHOCOLATE NUTTY FUDGE

Makes 24 pieces Preparation time 1 hour
Ingredients

300 grams sugar
100 grams cocoa powder
1 cup milk
3 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
100 grams chopped walnuts and cashew nuts

Heat the milk in a suitable pan. When warm mix in the sugar, vanilla essence and cocoa powder. Simmer on low heat stirring continuously. When the mixture starts leaving the sides of the pan, add the butter and chopped nuts and mix well. Remove from heat and pour onto a greased plate. Cut into squares or diamond shapes when slightly cool

SIMPLE CHICKEN AND POTATO ROAST

Serves: 6
Preparation and cooking time: 1 hour

Ingredients

1 whole chicken jointed into 4 to 6 pieces
6 medium size potatoes peeled
3 large onions quartered
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon fresh chopped mint
1 teaspoon pepper powder
Salt to taste
1 teaspoon vinegar

Method

1. Wash the chicken and the potatoes.

2. Mix in all the above ingredients and leave aside for 15 minutes.

3. Arrange the marinated chicken and potatoes in a buttered oven proof dish.

4.Cover the dish with foil.

5. Bake in a moderate oven (355 degrees) for about 45 minutes.

Serve with Steamed vegetables and any type of bread.

Article about my books in THE HINDU METRPLUS 3/11/07

Bridget White’s earlier books, “The Best of Anglo-Indian Cuisine – A Legacy”, “A Collection of Anglo Indian Roasts, Casseroles and Bakes”, and “Flavours of the Past”, were largely influenced by South In dian flavours. For her new book, “Anglo Indian Delicacies”, Bridget, born and brought up in Kolar Gold Fields, has included favourites from North India and Kolkata.

The book features old favourites such as pork bhooni, the Portuguese devil curry, which as the name suggests is fiery with chillies, and Fish Kedegeree, (an anglicised kitchri, a rice and lentil dish) among other things.

Bridget’s father, Sydney White, served in the REME during World War II and he would tell stories of his Army days and the glorious camp soup. The book includes regimental recipes such as camp soup, Bengal Lancers shrimp curry, one eyed Jack and boiled mutton chops. The recipes are simple and can be tried with easily available ingredients.

With the festive season upon us, the second book, “The Anglo Indian Festive Hamper” is just the ticket. The book is a collection of popular Anglo-Indian festive goodies such as cakes, sweets, puddings, sandwiches, preserves and home-made wines. The cakes section is exhaustive. From the rich plum cake to yule log, the walnut cake to the fruit mince pies, the list is endless. Then there are different kinds of icing. Besides, there are Easter eggs, hot cross buns, kalkals, rose cookies, marzipan, fritters, marshmallows, fudge, toffees, puddings, blancmange, cookies, pancakes, marmalades and preserves. These books are a sure way of surprising family and friends with a treat that’s easy to cook.

For copies contact Bridget at 0091 80 25504137 / +91 98455 71254
bridgetkumar@yahoo.com

TANGY FISH CURRY (FISH COOKED WITH TAMARIND

Serves 6 Preparation Time 45 minutes

1 kg good fleshy fish cut into slices
½ cup thick tamarind juice extracted from a lime size ball of tamarind
2 big onions chopped finely
2 tablespoons ginger garlic paste
½ cup ground coconut or 1 cup of coconut milk
3 teaspoons chilly powder
1 teaspoon cumin powder
2 teaspoons coriander powder
½ teaspoon turmeric powder
Salt to taste
3 tablespoons oil

Wash the fish well and fry it lightly to make it firm. Heat the oil in a shallow vessel and fry the onions till golden brown. Add the ginger garlic paste, chilly powder, cumin powder, coriander powder, turmeric powder and a little water and fry well for some time. Add the coconut, salt, tamarind juice and some more water and bring to boil. Add the fish and cook for about 6 to 7 minutes till the fish is cooked. Garnish with chopped coriander leaves and slit green chilies

EGG VINDALOO

Serves 6 Preparation time 45 minutes

6 Hard boiled eggs shelled
2 onions chopped
2 teaspoons chilly powder
½ teaspoon turmeric powder
2 teaspoons ginger garlic paste
1 teaspoon cumin powder
½ cup tomato puree
2 pieces cinnamon
2 table spoons vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
Salt to taste
3 tablespoons oil

Heat oil in a pan and sauté the onions till golden brown. Add the ginger garlic paste and cinnamon fry for some time. Add the chilly powder, cumin powder, turmeric powder, sugar and tomato puree and fry till the oil separates from the masala. Now add the vinegar and a little water and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer till the gravy is sufficiently thick. Cut the boiled eggs into halves and carefully drop into the gravy. Simmer for a few minutes. Take out the egg halves and place on a serving dish. Pour the thick gravy over the eggs and shake the dish so that all the eggs are covered with the gravy. Serve hot.

GREEN CHILLIE CHICKEN FRY

Serves 6 Preparation Time 1 hour
Ingredients

1 kg chicken cut into medium size pieces
1 teaspoon garlic paste
1 teaspoon ginger paste
1 teaspoon green chillie paste or Chillie sauce
1 teaspoon Vinegar
3 tablespoons oil or butter
2 teaspoons chopped green chillies
½ teaspoon tumeric powder
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
Salt to taste

Marinate the chicken with the salt, vinegar, turmeric powder, ginger, garlic, and chillie pastes and keep aside for 1 hour. Heat oil in a suitable pan and sauté the chopped garlic and green chillies for about 3 minutes. Add the marinated chicken and stir well. Stir fry for about 5 minutes till the chicken changes colour. Add a little water and simmer till the chicken is tender and the water dries up. Add one more spoon of oil or ghee and mix well. Serve with rice or bread. This can be served as a starter at parties as well.

BANANA COCONUT FRITTERS

An all time favourite fruit delivered in an enchanting treat - Banana Coconut Fritters combines the lovely taste of Bananas and Coconut which everyone will enjoy!!!!

Serves 6 Preparation time 1 hour
Ingredients

200 grams wheat flour
100 grams jaggery (powdered) or soft brown sugar
1 cup grated fresh coconut or 4 tablespoons desiccated coconut
2 eggs beaten
2 bananas mashed well (green skin variety)
½ teaspoon salt
oil for frying

Mix all the ingredients together to a thick smooth batter. Heat oil in a deep pan till smoky. Drop a tablespoon of the batter at a time into the hot oil and fry till golden brown.

Serve plain or with vanilla Icecream as a Tea time Treat.

ANGLO-INDIAN FISH VINDALOO

Serves 6 Preparation Time 45 minutes

1 kg good fleshy fish cut into slices
2 medium sized onions chopped
2 teaspoons chilly powder
2 teaspoons cumin powder
2 teaspoons ginger garlic paste
2 tablespoons vinegar
Salt to taste
2 tomatoes pureed
2 tablespoons oil

Wash the fish well and lightly fry in a little oil till the pieces become firm. Heat oil in a pan and add the onions and fry till light brown. Add the ginger garlic paste and sauté for a while. Add the chilly powder, cumin powder, pepper powder, tomato puree and salt and fry for some time. Add the fish and the vinegar and mix well. Add a little more water and cook till the gravy is slightly thick.

(Slices of Shark fish can also be used in this recipe to make Shark Fish Vindaloo. However the pieces need not be fried before hand since shark meat is already firm)